Waterfront Foundations

Waterfront lots are prized for their value, recreational access and setting.  Because the foundation of any home is critically important, a home near water requires special consideration from you as the homeowner, your builder, local building department and the foundation contractor.

As the homeowner or builder, you should visit your local building department and gather any information about the sub-surface soils you are about to build on.  Your local building inspector, in most cases will have information about the soils and earth layer make-up of your water front lot.  Keep in mind this will be an educated guess based on historical data from other completed home sites. 

You may want to choose a foundation contractor who has experience on your particular lake or river.  They’ll also have the knowledge of soil conditions, remedies for high water tables and be able to offer additional solutions to keep your foundation performing for generations.  As the homeowner, you may want to contact your new neighbors and ask them about the performance of their basement/crawl space.  Do they have water problems, poor indoor air quality, foundation stability issues, etc.  Review their foundation depths and compared their responses.  Does your builder of choice have experience building on water front sites?  If not, do you really want to be his first?

The important thing to remember is to set your foundation floor at an elevation above any normal and high water tables in order to maintain a dry and healthy home environment.

By The Leelanau Log Home Company LLC

www.leelanauloghomes.com 

Leelanau Log Home News

The Leelanau Log Home Company LLC is proud to announce joining Strongwood Log Homes as an independent dealer representative.  Strongwood, located in Waupaca, Wisconsin manufacturers log, timber frame and handcrafted log home packages.  To learn more go to: www.gostrongwood.com

Log Home Site Planning Basics: How to stakeout the location of your new log home

You've been walking your property for years pondering where put your log home.  After careful consideration during the site planning process, you've found the perfect spot.  If you’re smart, you will want to pinpoint (to within inches) exactly where your new home will permanently sit.  This is an exciting first step in the construction of your new log home, so lets get started.  Depending on the size and shape of your new home, you will want to purchase enough 4 foot stakes and string to lay out the perimeter of your house in full scale. Here are the materials and tools you'll need:

• Stakes for all the outside corners of your home
• Colored string
• Hammer 
• 100’ measuring tape
• Scaled floor plan of your home

Let’s begin, first you’ll want to start with the exterior wall that has the primary view typically the great room wall and stake each side according to your floor plan.  The remaining walls will be measured and staked off this wall.  Next from one of the stakes your just installed, measure the next wall  dimension to the nearest inch according to your floor plans and plant a stake.  Try to keep them square as possible, you'll return to each stake to make sure they are aligned properly later.  Keep repeating this step until you've staked the entire perimeter of your home. 

Next you'll want to square up your stakes by measuring the primary four corners diagonally to assure your stakes are squared.  Check and recheck and adjust all the walls as necessary.  
Once the stakes are squared to within just a couple of inches per your floor plans, go around to each stake and drive them into the ground with the hammer at least 12 ".  Next take your color string and wrap it around each stake to outline the perimeter of your new log home.

Now you can actually walk through your future home in full scale and see what the views will look like from each room.  This is the critical point to evaluate your placement and re-stake if desired.  

By The Leelanau Log Home Company LLC
www.leelanauloghomes.com

Log Home FAQ: Exterior Maintenance

How much Exterior Maintenance Is Required For A Log Home?

The amount of exterior maintenance will vary depending on the location and position of your home on the site. Typically you may have to reapply a stain coat every 3-7 years, but there are many variables at play such as UV exposure, quality of finish, quality of preparation and application, log moisture content, caulk job, etc. 

 Areas of your home that receive longer periods of sunlight (UV exposure) will require re-coating more frequently. Typically a darker the stain color will last longer due to the dark pigment that protects against UV.  Plus there are new products on the market today that can extend the life of your stain. 

Your log home dealer and builder can recommend stain and caulk products, review how to  conduct routine maintenance inspections, suggest tips how to extend the life of your exterior stain and review with you the importance of caulk.

The bottomline...maintaining your exterior finish on your log home is an ongoing process and protecting your investment by learning tips from the pro's is a wise decision.

Click on the link below and read this excellent white paper from the Log Home Council website:

Download a PDF about the maintenance of log structures.

By The Leelanau Log Home Company LLC

www.leelanauloghomes.com

Log Home Design Basics: Smart design on a tight budget

1.  Design and Engineering:

We recommend that when shopping for a log home company, they offer in-house drafting,    design and engineering services.  These important services offer you assurance that all the components of your log home will work properly together reducing the risk of structural issues down the road.  Think of your custom log home as a “system”, with all those parts working in concert together.  Expert design and engineering, combined with a builder that is skilled in log home construction will result in a quality built custom home that will be free of issues.

2.  Square Feet: 
Determining the overall size of your log home can be a challenging task.  Our advice is design room by room using your current home as a guide.  Here are some things to think about:

• Rooms...how many bedrooms do you need now, plus how many in the future?  What size works with your furniture, are you planning on downsizing for this new home?
• Too many hallways?  Hallways can waste space and take up room in your design that could be living space.  Are there ways to change the design to increase living space while allowing easy access to rooms?
• Traffic flow.  There are simple rules of thumb when looking at the flow in your new log home design.  Entry ways, landings or hallways ideally should be at least 4 feet wide. Walking pathways through rooms should be at least 3 feet and have multiple access points.
• Schedule with your log home dealer of choice to visit their model home, current projects for finished log homes to get an idea of room sizes and scale.  This will be a valuable experience for you and help you make the right choices for room dimensions.
• Smaller maybe smarter?  The trend is to build smaller and use the space more efficiently and really invest those hard earned dollars towards upgrades such as elaborate fireplaces, flat screen TVs, custom built-ins and woodwork, high end cabinets, flooring, etc.
• Don’t go it alone.  Work with your dealer or builder to help you with your design.  They can offer you options that you may not be aware of, while keeping your budget in mind.

3.  Shape of the log home:
Log homes are labor intensive which is one of the factors that affect the higher labor rates than a conventional stick-built home.  The shape of your home will impact the shell-in labor cost, which means the more complicated the design, i.e. the more inside and outside corners, built-up roof systems, multiple roof pitches that a home has the more it will cost to build.  The key here is to work with your log home dealer or builder on the design so they can offer options to minimize corners or complicated designs that can affect cost for those on a tight budget.

4.  Style and size of the log:
For many the style and size of the log is tops on their needs list.  Did you know that the most common log profile is the “D-log” which industry insiders say accounts for 70-80% of all the log home packages sold in the USA.  Since the D-log is common, construction costs for that log profile will be less expensive.  The larger the log diameter, expect to pay increased labor costs for construction.  

5.  Go log siding:
Conventionally framed homes with half log siding are all the rage today.  This log home building system has big cost advantages (lower materials and labor costs) than the traditional full log system.  You get all the log home look and appeal at a lower cost.  In fact, the last two custom log homes that we've built have been stick-built with half log siding system.  Terrific value.

6.  Design down, not up or out:
For many the basement is that place for a workshop, storage and a place to put all the mechanical systems.  Why not consider designing living space in the basement from the start.  Here are some advantages:

• The basement with living space offers you the lowest cost per square foot in the home.
• You can reduce the size of the log home footprint and actually increase your total living square feet by utilizing the living space in the basement.
• If your land offers the option for a walkout basement, you have lots of design opportunities to save big bucks.
• This is a great way to stretch that investment dollar and give you the room that you need.

7.  Interior finishes selections:
Interior finish items and systems can account for approximately 60% of the total cost of your custom log home.  Being wise and s

8.  Sweat Equity:
The definition of this term is when you as the homeowner perform some or all of the construction yourself.  Many log home builders are flexible and will allow you to perform certain tasks or phases to save costs.  However, let me share a word of caution.  If you plan to do some of the work, you’ll need to make sure you have the time and skills to perform the work. Otherwise you could delay your log home project or run up costs.        

9.  Upgrade later:
Certain parts of your log home may be delayed or planned for the future as time or money or both present themselves.  You may consider opting for laminate kitchen counter tops versus granite, or finishing your walkout basement at a later date.

10.   Allow enough time for preliminary planning:
In this microwave get it done yesterday society, many folks don’t allow themselves enough time to do effective and through preliminary planning.  By that we mean, taking the time to discuss, evaluate and determine all the project specifics with the log home dealer and builder.  Typically from the site visit through the final preliminary floorplan and cost proposals it will take 3-4 months.  in between there are numerous conversations and meetings to create your game plan.

11.  Think efficiency, think Green:
Green building has many definitions today, but at the core of this movement is energy efficiency.  By thinking “Green” during your preliminary planning phase and incorporating the concept into your design can actually save you money during the life of the home by making smart choices.  Here are a few ways to save operating costs by thinking Green:

• Position your home on your site to take advantage of passive solar gain that can save you big bucks on heating and cooling.  You’ll need to determine room and window placement within the home design.
• Consider the square foot of each room.  Do you really need a 24’ x 20’ Great room?  Can the design incorporate the kitchen square foot with the Great room?  Remember, all that space needs to be heated and cooled.
• Volume of the home does matter.  Just consider that if you increase the wall height from a standard 8’ to 12’ you’ll need to heat and cool an additional 25% more volume of air.  Consider only higher ceilings in areas that create the ambiance you are looking for, while keeping lower ceiling heights in areas such as bedrooms.
• What type of insulation you use can make a big difference in your operating cost
• Determine what type of heating and cooling system your budget will allow.  For example, conventional gas forced air systems are most common and are cost effective systems.  But consider this, if you upgrade to a geo-thermal system your intial investment will be 50-60% higher, but could pay for itself in 10 years.  Add ceiling fans in strategic locations with in the home and consider a zero-clearance fireplace with a blower to off-set your winter heating bills.

Smart design concepts can help you create an efficient and cost effective log home.  

By The Leelanau Log Home Company LLC

www.leelanauloghomes.com 

Fireplace & Stove Basics

Imagine…its January…blustery cold…you plop on the couch after a tough week at work...gazing through the window of your log home you can see kids ice skating on the frozen lake.  Totally relaxed now, you turn to the fireplace to add another log on the fire. 

For many, a similar Norman Rockwell like image is etched in their minds when they think of their dream log home.  The fireplace is often a center piece of any design and adds comfort and value to your investment.  

But today you have many choices, here are some basics to help you get started.

There's a wide selection of size, style, quality, price, efficiency, performance, etc. for a fireplace or stove from numerous manufactures.  To help you narrow your search, start by asking yourself these questions to help you determine what’s best for you.

1. How often do you plan to use the fireplace or stove?  As a heat source (alternative/primary) or just have an occasional fire for ambience?
2. What type of fuel do you plan to burn, hardwood, pellets, corn, coal or gas?  What are the availability, access and cost of your fuel of choice?
3. Is efficiency or environmental concerns important to you?
4. What level of priority is a fireplace or stove on your “wish list” and how much can you allocate to this item in the budget?

Fireplace Options:

The traditional masonry fireplace or firebox which is typically made of brick/stone and mortar and requires substantial structural support to carry the weight.  If this is your choice you’ll need to plan ahead and design in footing and foundation support at the preliminary design stage.  A traditional fireplace is very inefficient, around 10%.  You’ll also have an option to install a fireplace insert to improve efficiency.

 

The most popular option today is to install an engineered (also known as pre-fabricated or zero-clearance) fireplace unit with a double wall stainless steel chimney pipe inside a framed wall with culture stone veneer.  This option, you get the look of real stone, but with the choice for higher efficiency than a traditional fireplace.  Many manufactures offer outside air intakes and fan blowers to push heated air into the room.  There are typically three grades of fireplaces in this class, builder grade, heater grade, furnace grade.  The later can be EPA certified, offer insulated fireboxes, heat exchangers, upgraded doors for improve efficiency and offer higher quality of construction.

 

Masonry heaters (a.k.a.: Russian Stove, Finnish Fireplace, Soapstone Fireplace) are common in Europe and are a becoming a popular option in the USA (this will also require planning at the preliminary plan stage for structural support in the foundation).  They are designed to burn a hot fire where the exhaust flows through a series of baffles which allows the masonry thermo mass to slowly absorb the heat energy and release it back into the space.  These units are very clean burning, emit little smoke and very efficient up to 90%.  Masonry heaters can be custom built or you can purchase manufactured units of all sizes.  If you want to heat efficiently with wood and have the budget, this maybe a choice for you.

Stove Options:

Typically less expensive than a fireplace this is a cost effective way to add heat to your home as a primary or secondary heat source.    There is a wide selection of stoves on the market that burn a variety of fuel such as wood, corn, coal, gas, wood pellets, cherry pits and more.  Typically the stove is placed on tile or stone over a fire retardant underlayment.  Some pellet or gas stoves are near zero clearance and can be placed close to a wall with direct horizontal venting through the wall.  Efficiency varies by stove, but expect up to 60%.

No matter what system you choose, we recommend you consult with a fireplace professional to explain more about the products, performance and costs so you can determine which fireplace or stove that’s right for you.   Your builder can often supply you with names of local fireplace stores that can assist you.  We always recommend that you have your fireplace, stove, masonry heater built or installed by a professional. 

TIP:  If you plan to burn daily as a primary heat source, you’ll want to review with your builder of record and/or HVAC contractor about maintaining the correct relative humidity level in your log home.  

By The Leelanau Log Home Company LLC

www.leelanauloghomes.com 

Log Home Site Planning Basics: Determining the foundation elevation

Have you ever seen a house that sits low in the ground?  It looks like it's sinking and you have to wonder if there are water issues in the basement. 

Part of developing the site plan involves determining the depth of the foundation wall footings in relation to the foundation wall height, terrain, water table level and the final grade.  It's basically a balancing act that factors these elements to get it just right.  Before we dig the hole, we’ll spend a significant amount of time at the building site doing all these calculations to determine the optimal footing depth for the foundation wall.  It’s so crucial to the appearance, performance and overall health of the home.  Since many log homes are built near water or on uneven terrain or both, this challenge becomes even more important when preparing the site plan.  

There are three key areas that we factor when setting the footing depth: 

•          Appearance of the log home with 18-24” of foundation wall showing at final grade.
•          Site water table and if there are hydro-static water pressure issues.
•          Site terrain and final grade on all four sides of the home (water runoff and drainage).

Here are some steps we typically take when working with the foundation contractor.

To determine the water table depth on the building site, we’ll test dig 1-4 holes at least the depth of your basement or crawl space floor and 1-2 holes at least 1-2 feet deeper than the basement or crawl space floor.  Let them sit for 24-48 hours and check them to see if water is in the hole(s), that tells us the water table level.  We’ll measure from the water level to the top of grade to help us calculate footing depth in relation to the foundation wall height and factoring the grade and 18-24” of foundation wall show.  This test also will give us a good idea of the seasonal high water mark based on the time of year of the test. 

Next we’ll meet with the foundation contractor on site prior to the scheduled excavation date to review the overall game plan for site clearing, excavation, location of topsoil pile, seek his opinion on the test hole results, discuss if additional fill sand maybe required and review the our estimated footing depth measurements.

On excavation day we’re there as they dig the foundation hole.  Once the hole is dug for the footings at our pre-determined depth we’ll evaluate the soil conditions (sand is good, clay is bad) and check for water issues if any and if necessary make adjustments to the footing depth.

If there is water or a potential for water issues, we’ll take the necessary steps to insure the foundation will perform properly.  Typically we’ll spec perimeter drain tile around the outside of the foundation at the footings, plus drain tile inside the foundation draining into a sump crock with pump.  We may also spec 6” of pea stone fill inside the foundation under the slab floor which effectively dissipates the hydro-static pressure.  In addition, we may upgrade the foundation wall coating to waterproofing or membrane barriers if there a significant risk of excessive hydro-static water pressure issues.  These steps are inexpensive insurance and will help protect your investment from potential water issues.

Factoring the existing terrain we'll make sure the grade is away from the foundation and we achieve 18-24" of foundation showing with the final grade on all four sides of the home.  This may require additional fill.

Because each new home is unique and presents its own challenges not every foundation site plan will be the same.  We hope this gives you some insight into the many factors used to avoid that sinking log home look. 

By The Leelanau Log Home Company

www.leelanauloghomes.com